How We Cut Our Bespoke Custom Women’s Suits

Women’s Suits: A Design Challenge

When we were developing our women’s custom suit program, we knew right away that a huge gap yawned in the market for thoughtfully designed, well-constructed women’s suiting made from quality-sourced fabrics. The challenge of designing a women’s bespoke suit program quickly became apparent: in contrast to men’s suiting (where the variations are extremely subtle, making even trendy suits remarkably similar to classic silhouettes), women’s suiting is extraordinarily diverse in cut and fabric. We couldn’t possibly be proficient in every aspect of the wide range of women’s styles and silhouettes, or even match the more narrow focus of a couture design house.

Instead, we focused on what we do well: dynamic traditional tailoring and design.

Our women’s custom suit program features three overall silhouettes that allow us to adapt our traditional tailored designs to clients’ preferences. The result is a woman’s suit unlike anything in the market today, bearing all the hallmarks and quality of bespoke tailoring while incorporating a modern fashion aesthetic.

The House Cuts of Our Womens Custom Suits

Please note that the descriptions below are meant solely to delineate the cut and overall aesthetic lines of our suits. Custom details such as lapel types, pockets, buttons, linings, and so on are available in all three cuts; they are part of the custom design process, responsive to client preference, and included in the price.

The Feminine Suit

• This custom suit is cut with feminine proportions.

• Jacket lengths are exaggerated (i.e., cropped or long), depending on preference.

• Jacket waist suppression and hip shaping offer a more “Coke bottle” silhouette.

• Shoulders can be padded or broadened to flatter the client’s shoulder/chest/waist ratio.

• Darting is shaped and placed to accentuate curves.

• Pants will have an exaggerated line (e.g., slim and cropped, wide-legged, drain pipe, et cetera) based on the client’s preference and proportions.

• All closures are right to left.

The Androgynous Suit

• This custom suit cut is made using a more masculine proportion that still follows the client’s own frame and build.

• Jacket length will lean to a more masculine Mod-style hem, ending at ¾ of the client’s hips.

• Jacket waist will have a slightly nipped-in V shape, erring on the side of a more androgynous feel and playing down the client’s curves as desired.

• Shoulders will be canvas-lined and lightly padded to form a more natural line.

• A basted chest canvas and light padding will downplay curves as desired.

• The jacket will have no darting.

• Pants will have a tailored menswear silhouette.

• All closures will be left to right.

The Masculine Suit

• This custom suit is made and fitted to the same exact proportions as a standard men’s suit.

• Jacket length will be based on the client’s balance line, dynamic to her torso/leg ratio.

• Jacket waist will have a nipped-in V shape, exaggerated to create a more masculine chest/waist ratio.

• Shoulders will be padded and roped to create a more masculine shoulder/chest ratio.

• A basted chest canvas with English-style padding will provide a more masculine line and hide any feminine curves.

• No darting will be added to the jacket.

• Pants will have a tailored menswear silhouette.

• All closures will be left to right.

The Cutting Room is a bespoke design studio based in Orange County Ca. Servicing Los Angeles, Sand Diego and the Inland Empire and specializing in custom suits and tuxedos for men and women.