The Modern Ivory Bespoke Dinner Jacket

Sketch to Finish: The Custom Made Modern Ivory Dinner Jacket

There’s something timeless about an ivory dinner jacket — it captures the essence of old-school cool with an air of effortless sophistication. This piece was conceived as a nod to classic Hollywood and Savile Row tailoring, but reimagined for the modern groom seeking a bespoke wedding tuxedo that feels both traditional and unexpected.

From across the room, it’s pure vintage elegance. Step closer, and the non-traditional detailing reveals a quiet rebellion — a piece that honors black-tie tradition while pushing it forward.

Bespoke ivory dinner jacket from sketch to finish — design sketch, tailored jacket in studio, and final wedding tuxedo look.

from concept to creation: the Sketch to Finish journey of our bespoke ivory dinner jacket — designed in silk and wool herringbone, tailored for a modern groom with timeless style.

The Fabric

Fabric selection is where every bespoke garment begins, and this piece is no exception. The choice of cloth sets the tone for drape, sheen, and texture — the very elements that define how a dinner jacket behaves under light and movement.

  • Jacket Cloth:

    • Composition: 70% Wool / 30% Silk

    • Mill: Reda (Biella, Italy) Tier AAA

    • Grade: Super 150’s

    • Weave: Subtle 1” Herringbone structure, nearly invisible until the light hits it

    • Color: Bright ivory with a soft warm undertone — refined yet forgiving under photography

    • Performance: Silk lends luster and breathability, while fine wool ensures a clean, fluid drape

  • Trousers Fabric:

    • Composition: 84% Wool / 16% Mohair

    • Mill: Vitale Barberis Canonico (Biella, Italy) Tier AA

    • Weave: Tropical plain weave for crispness and durability

    • Color: Deep black, offering tonal contrast to the ivory jacket

    • Performance: Mohair’s natural spring and wrinkle resistance maintain a razor-sharp line throughout long events

Technical Note: The pairing of silk-blend herringbone and mohair wool offers a refined contrast in both luster and texture — a hallmark of bespoke tuxedo design.

The Details

This custom tailored wedding dinner jacket takes the codes of formalwear and pares them back to their architectural essence — precise, minimalist, intentional.

  • Lapels:

    • Slim peak lapel profile, cut at a high gorge (positioned above the collarbone line for a taller silhouette)

    • Width: 2.75" — a deliberate deviation from the currently trending 3.5"+ wider peaks

    • Trim: 3/8” white satin edge applied by hand — subtle tonal contrast that reads clean in photographs

  • Pocket Configuration:

    • Breast Pocket: Welt finish (instead of the standard full satin-faced jet) for a tailored, linear look

    • Lower Pockets: Straight jetted, trimmed with matching satin

  • Buttons & Jetting:

    • Covered in matching satin for visual coherence

    • Hand-stitched shanks ensure clean separation from the cloth — preventing fabric puckering under tension

  • Vents & Fastening:

    • Single-button closure in the classic tuxedo tradition

    • Double vents for movement and ventilation

  • Lining:

    • Half-lined in ivory Bemberg cupro for lightweight comfort and breathability

Detail Philosophy: Every accent was designed to feel intentional rather than ornamental — allowing the fabric and cut to take precedence over embellishment.

Ready to Create Your Own Bespoke Ivory Tuxedo?

Step beyond the ordinary. At Cutting Room Bespoke, every custom tuxedo is hand-cut, hand-finished, and made entirely to your measure. Whether for your wedding or a black-tie affair, your custom ivory bespoke dinner jacket starts with you as the inspiration.

Book your private fitting today.

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The Cut

Fit is where bespoke craftsmanship meets anatomy. For this piece, the objective was to merge British structure with a contemporary silhouette — disciplined but fluid.

  • Shoulder Construction:

    • Lightly padded with roped sleeve heads, echoing British military lineage

    • Encourages a square stance and confident line across the chest

  • Armscye & Sleeve:

    • High-cut armscye for improved range of motion

    • Slight forward pitch in sleeve rotation for a natural resting posture

  • Waist & Silhouette:

    • Nipped waist for a sculpted hourglass (“Coke bottle”) profile

    • Subtly flared skirt to emphasize chest suppression and waist contour

    • Slimmer through the body than traditional English cuts, offering a more contemporary drape

  • Trousers:

    • High rise with extended waistband and side adjusters

    • Cut: Straight “drainpipe” silhouette — slim but not tight

    • Stripe: ¾” black satin braid down the outseam

    • Hem: Plain finish, no break, for a clean line over patent loafers

Cutting Philosophy: Proportion and posture are prioritized over trend. The structure enhances the wearer’s form rather than overpowering it.

Styling the Bespoke Modern Ivory Tuxedo

This dinner jacket was conceived for the modern groom who appreciates timeless tailoring but seeks individuality through subtlety, not flash.

  • Pair with a black silk bow tie and ivory pleated shirt for a purist approach.

  • Alternatively, style with a black roll-neck for a contemporary evening look.

  • Works impeccably in summer weddings, destination ceremonies, or formal receptions under warm lighting.

The Takeaway

This Sketch to Finish piece embodies the evolution of classic black tie — an ivory dinner jacket that bridges eras. It’s something old, something new, hand-cut for the groom who values craftsmanship and character in equal measure.

Every decision — from lapel height to herringbone texture — serves one goal: creating a tuxedo that feels custom, considered, and timelessly cool.

TCR Bespoke