A Visual Tour: The Quality of The Best Tailored Custom Suits
What is the difference between a well made high quality custom suit and an inexpensive cheap suit?
Got questions? Find answers here FAQ
Why do some suits cost thousands?
In one word: Craftsmanship. The best suits are all about the craft and art of great suit making. Below is a detail by detail tour of how we make the best quality bespoke custom suits at an affordable price. We will be the first to admit our suits are not cheap but we are confident that…
with consideration of design, fit, construction, and service vs. price…
stich for stich we provide the best value in bespoke custom made suits.
Our Offerings Men’s Custom Suits I Women’s Custom Suits I Custom Dress Shirts I Custom Tuxedos I Custom Blazers and Sport Coats
Left: Close up of temporary basting stitches used to hold canvas in place during production. Right: Close up of the basting stitches used in the lapel
Hand Basted Canvas
Does a hand basted canvas matter in a well made suit? Absolutely
Each of our jackets is constructed with a lightweight horsehair and linen blend canvas, carefully hand-basted under light tension inside the garment. This traditional method gives our suits their signature drape, structure, and natural movement.
Many lesser suit makers choose to glue their interlinings to save time — but those fused layers often de-laminate over time with wear and dry cleaning. Our hand-basted process, on the other hand, ensures the canvas stays perfectly in place for the life of the suit.
The result? A jacket that moves with you — soft in feel, fluid in motion, and free from pulling or puckering — the hallmark of true bespoke craftsmanship.
Top: Basted chest horse hair/linen canvas lightly padded with felt and cotton. Bottom: Temporary basting stitches used to hold canvas in place during production.
Hand Padded and Molded Shoulders.
Our shoulders are constructed entirely by hand, from scratch, using thin layers of cotton, felt, and canvas. Each one is shaped to match the client’s unique shoulder angle, slope, and musculature.
While many suitmakers rely on pre-made, heavily padded shoulder forms to save time, we take the opposite approach. Our jackets feature minimal padding, allowing for a more natural silhouette that complements your body’s true shape.
The result is a shoulder that’s clean, crisp, and precisely balanced — delivering a fit and feel that’s unmistakably custom.
Top: Optional hand pick stitching on lapels and welt pocket. Bottom: Optional hand pick stitching on sleeve head, lapels and shoulder seam
Hand Stitching: Why it makes a difference.
Hand stitching relies on tactile precision and experience. Each fabric has a unique “hand” — its own structure, texture, and elasticity — requiring the tailor to adjust the tension and spacing of each stitch accordingly.
Unlike machines, which apply uniform pressure, a skilled tailor can sense subtle variations in resistance and compensate in real time. This prevents puckering, distortion, or over-tight seams that can weaken the fabric.
Our garments are finished with either visible English pick stitching for a refined decorative edge, or invisible French seams for a seamless finish. Both showcase the integrity and craftsmanship behind every bespoke suit we make.
Left: Optional hand pick stitching on the collar nape and center back back seam. Right: Optional hand pick stitching on waist darts and pockets
From left to right: Center seam pleating in our jackets provide added range of movement. Pocket detailing and reinforcement creates added functionality. Bold linings showcase our over 200 available choices. Sweat shields under the arms help protect your sweat from being visible during wear.
Floating pleated Lining: Creates a Clean Drape and Ease of Movement
Our linings are hand-basted and carefully pleated to move in harmony with the body. The light tension of each stitch and pleat allows the lining to flex naturally and shift independently from the outer shell of the jacket.
This meticulous process ensures maximum comfort and range of movement while preserving the suit’s clean, structured lines. It’s an extra step — often skipped in modern tailoring — that reflects our commitment to both precision and wearability.
Prince of Wales Glen Plaid: Note how patterns match at welt pocket (vertical), chest to sleeve (horizontal), and lapel to chest (diagonal)
Left: Stripes match at welt pocket featuring a curved "canoe" Neapolitan style pocket. Right: Stripes match on pocket flap featuring "slanted" English style construction.
Pattern Matching: Tell Tale Sign of Hand Craftsmanship
Matching patterns at the seams and pockets is one of the truest marks of a well-made custom suit. It’s a detail that demands the trained eyes and skilled hands of an experienced tailor — something machines and mass-production methods simply can’t replicate.
Precise pattern alignment requires extra fabric, careful cutting, and meticulous sewing, but it’s a step we never compromise. The result is a suit that looks seamless, balanced, and beautifully intentional — one of the most visible hallmarks of exceptional tailoring.
Left to right: Hand selected mother of pearl buttons on a functional “surgeon” cuff sleeve. Rich colors are featured in our premium bone buttons.
Premium Buttons: Hand Selected for their Deep Rich Color and Finish
Nothing undermines a great suit like cheap or poorly sewn buttons. That’s why we use only the finest buttons sourced from around the world, chosen for their durability, color depth, and natural beauty.
Each button is hand-matched to complement the fabric’s tone and texture, then hand-sewn with a reinforced stem and button backer for strength and longevity. Every jacket is finished with functional buttonholes (surgeon’s cuffs) — a hallmark of true bespoke craftsmanship.
Pleated Waist Bands
Pleated waistbands are a time-honored tailoring detail — a meticulous, time-consuming step that remains the most effective way to keep a dress shirt neatly tucked in.
As you move, sit, or bend, the pleats flex and expand naturally, catching the shirt and preventing it from coming loose. For added security, we also incorporate rubber grip strips inside the waistband, ensuring your trousers stay perfectly in place throughout the day.
Details. Details. Details. The Best Custom Suits are ALL ABOUT THE DETAILS.
A great bespoke suit is defined by the tiny details — those subtle, often unseen elements that come together to create something greater than the sum of its parts.
From reinforced tacks at stress points and heel guards at the hem, to bias-cut vents and hand-finished interior pockets, every feature is engineered for both durability and elegance. There are too many of these refinements to list, but each plays a vital role in the comfort, structure, and longevity of the suit.
We focus on these details because we believe true craftsmanship balances technical precision with artistic integrity. We invite you to visit us in person — let us show you, stitch by stitch, why our suits represent the best value in bespoke tailoring, bar none.