The Fabric Power Rankings: The Real Talk Guide to Custom & Bespoke Suit Fabrics

Here’s the thing about custom suits: most guys think “the more I spend, the better it must be.”
Wrong. It’s like thinking the fanciest golf club automatically fixes your swing.

At Cutting Room Bespoke, we build bespoke suits that last, not suits that cry when it rains. And if you’re going bespoke for the first time, here’s a hard truth:
the finer the fabric, the less you should wear it.
Wild, right? You spend more… and it wears out faster. It’s the couture version of buying a race car for rush hour.

So let’s break down the fabric tiers like a Bill Simmons “Power Rankings” — part textile science, part common sense, and all style.

Tier A — The Everyday MVP of Custom Suits

Roughly 1,000 options from top Italian and British mills.
This is the LeBron of fabric tiers — consistent, durable, shows up every game.

Tier A fabrics are the foundation of great bespoke suits that work hard: daily office wear, travel, client meetings, and even the occasional wedding crash. They’re resilient, crease-resistant, and high-performing.

Super rating: around Super 100s
Best for: daily custom suits that need to look good, travel well, and last years — not months.

These are the workhorses of luxury tailoring — sturdy, handsome, and absolutely not divas.

Tier AA — The Everyday Suit, Upgraded

Roughly 1,000 fabrics in the Super 100–130 range from mills like Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC), Guabello, Huddersfield, and Jorge Carli.
Think of this as your “everyday bespoke suit 2.0” — same durability, smoother hand, and a richer, deeper color palette.

Each mill has its own “secret sauce.” VBC is known for refined finishing, Guabello for modern texture, Huddersfield for legendary structure. Together, they form the dream team of practical elegance.

Why it wins:

  • Still durable, but with luxury woven in

  • Incredible color depth and drape

  • Performs beautifully for everyday wear

Best for: professionals who want refined, resilient custom suits that can handle the boardroom and beyond.

Tier AAA — Luxury You Can Actually Wear

Roughly 800 fabrics, ranging from Super 100–150, featuring world-class mills like VBC, Drago, Reda, Huddersfield, and Jorge.
This is where you really start to feel what luxury tailoring is about.

Tier AAA fabrics are soft, elegant, and perfectly balanced between bespoke craftsmanship and real-world performance. They drape like a dream, breathe well, and still hold up to regular rotation.

Why it wins:

  • Noticeably softer and more luxurious

  • Strong enough for frequent wear

  • Excellent handfeel and visual texture

Best for: clients who want custom suits that feel indulgent but stay practical.

Tier AAAA — The Trophy Cloth

Roughly 700 options of pure, visible luxury: VBC Revenge Super 150s, Drago Super 160, Reda Super 150.
These are the Aston Martins of bespoke suiting fabrics — sleek, refined, and meant for the spotlight.

The drape? Fluid. The texture? Silky. The look? “Did-he-just-walk-out-of-a-commercial” level.
They’re not built for daily wear, but when you do wear them, you own the room.

Why it wins:

  • Luminous sheen and feather-light feel

  • Statement-making refinement

  • Built for elegance, not endurance

Best for: weddings, galas, and milestone custom suits where you want to be noticed — for all the right reasons.

Market Tier — The Mount Rushmore of Bespoke Fabrics

From $2,100–$20,000, featuring Zegna, Dormeuil, Hardy Minnis, Holland & Sherry, Drago, VBC, Stylbiella, Il Cervo, and Scabal.

This is the top of the mountain — the “Game 7” level of bespoke tailoring. These fabrics are rare, complex, and utterly beautiful. Woven from the finest fibers on earth, they’re what legends and collectors commission when “nice suit” isn’t enough.

Why it wins:

  • Unmatched craftsmanship and fiber quality

  • Signature aesthetic from each iconic mill

  • True heirloom-grade custom suiting

Best for: clients who appreciate artistry, rarity, and the pure thrill of wearing the best.

The Technical Truth

the differenc between our fabric tiers and pricing

Let’s take off the pocket square and talk data for a second.

  • Super number = fiber fineness, not quality.

  • Higher numbers feel softer, but wear faster.

  • Durability peaks around Super 100–130, where the weave density and elasticity create the best performance-to-luxury ratio.

It’s why a Tier AA suit outlasts a Tier AAAA — and why your custom suit should be matched to your lifestyle, not your ego.

The Final Word: Your Suit Should Work As Hard As You Do

Choosing the right fabric tier isn’t about status; it’s about strategy.
Tier A and AA? The daily starters — strong, versatile, and endlessly reliable.
Tier AAA? The All-Star that shows up on big days.
Tier AAAA and Market Tier? The icons you bring out when it’s time to make a statement.

At Cutting Room Bespoke, we’ll help you draft the perfect lineup — a wardrobe that performs beautifully, feels amazing, and reflects your life, not just your label.

Book your fitting today, and let’s design a custom suit that fits you — in every way that matters.

TCR Bespoke