Blue, Double Breasted, Modern Cut Tuxedo, with Navy Satin Lapels.

The Design:

We wanted to create a one of a kind tuxedo that was equal parts classic design but with a modern feel. For the past few years the “bruiser” (black and blue tuxedo) has been the go to alternative black tie look, but for this one we wanted something a little more striking.

Sketch to Finish: Custom double breasted tuxedo with navy satin and shawl lapels

Sketch to Finish: Custom double breasted tuxedo with navy satin and shawl lapels

Custom Tuxedo Design Specs


The fabric makes or breaks the design, so e wanted to find the right shade of blue. Not quite royal or navy but something closer to a steel blue. After looking through a few books, we settled on a super 110’s wool and mohair, harness cloth by Vitale Barberis. It has a great sheen, without being shiny, while the mohair gives it a crisp drape perfect for a tuxedo.

The tuxedo shirt featured a two-ply 150’s Sea Island cotton broadcloth weave to be paired with a pique bib.


The jacket was to feature a two-button (one to fasten) double breasted cut. For suits the double breasted look had made a comeback albeit with the 4button (2 to fasten)high waist stance cut. The lower button stance of the 2x1 double breast we feel is much better for a modern cut tuxedo as it allows ore of the shirt to show through. Unlike the “bruiser” version most commonly requested, we wanted to use a navy satin to give the tux a more monochrome look. We used the same navy satin for the British turn up cuffs as well. Lastly we paired the design details with a Neapolitan shirt shoulder which gave it a much more relaxed vibe which is a stark contrast to most double breasted jackets which commonly favor roped English style shoulders. 

The matching blue tuxedo trousers featured adjuster-buckle enclosures on the waist and a single navy satin stripe down the leg.

The tuxedo shirt was made with a pique bib front and a widespread turndown collar, to be worn with a bowtie, French cuffs, and a fly-front placket to cover the buttons.


The cut was designed to have a modern slim almost “shrunken” feel. We gave it a shorter jacket,  nipped waist and slim drain pipe leg trousers.

TCR is a bespoke design house based in Orange County, California. Serving Los Angeles, San Diego and Inland Empire Counties

If you’d like to learn more about commissioning a custom-made dinner jacket or Tuxedo for your wedding,  please contact us

TCR Bespoke