Every bespoke garment begins long before a needle meets fabric. It starts with materials of uncompromising quality — the fabrics, threads, canvases, and paddings that define the life and movement of a suit.
At Cutting Room Bespoke, we take a scientific yet sensory approach to material selection. Each supplier for our bespoke custom suits is chosen not simply for heritage or reputation, but for measurable excellence — fiber fineness, tensile strength, weave integrity, and chromatic stability. These are the foundational principles that determine how a suit will look, feel, and age over time.
Every fabric we use is evaluated through four precise lenses of quality. When these are balanced correctly, the result is a fabric that feels refined yet robust, and performs beautifully under real-world conditions.
We proudly feature fabrics ranging up to Super 180’s, representing some of the finest wools available in tailoring today.
The Super Number indicates the diameter of each individual wool fiber, measured in microns. Higher numbers, such as Super 160’s or Super 180’s, deliver a luxuriously soft hand and fluid drape. However, extreme fineness must be counterbalanced by structure to ensure longevity.
At Cutting Room Bespoke, we focus on the optimal range between Super 110’s and Super 180’s — cloths that achieve the sweet spot between buttery smooth texture and long-term resilience.
Feature: Premium Australian and New Zealand merino wools, carefully graded and micron-tested.
Benefit: Fabrics that breathe naturally, resist creasing, and maintain a refined silhouette across years of wear.
Explore in depth: [What Do the Super Numbers in Suits Mean?]
Yarn twist defines how tightly each strand of wool is spun, influencing elasticity, drape, and wrinkle resistance. A higher twist produces a denser, more resilient fabric, while lower twists offer softness and pliability.
We select balanced high-twist yarns designed for everyday wear, travel, and motion. This ensures our garments retain their crisp form while remaining supple to the touch.
Feature: Balanced S- and Z-twist yarn construction.
Benefit: Exceptional shape recovery, enhanced crease resistance, and a naturally fluid drape that adapts to movement.
A fabric’s weave determines not only how it looks, but how it performs. We use a variety of traditional and technical weaves to serve different purposes and climates:
Twill: Recognized by its diagonal ribbing, twill offers resilience and a lustrous surface — perfect for business suiting.
Hopsack: An open, basket-like weave that promotes airflow and flexibility, ideal for warmer weather or travel wear.
Plain Weave: A crisp, tightly interlaced structure providing clean lines and lightweight refinement.
Flannel Weave: Brushed for softness and warmth, perfect for autumn and winter tailoring.
Each weave is selected for tactile experience, seasonal performance, and structural integrity.
Feature: Variety of weave densities and textures, selected per function.
Benefit: Optimal balance of breathability, resilience, and visual sophistication year-round.
The final measure of quality lies in the fabric’s chromatic depth — how light plays across its surface. We partner with mills that specialize in yarn-dyed and double-dyed processes, using precision-controlled dye lots that maintain vibrancy and consistency.
Feature: High-quality reactive dyes and finishing treatments that enhance tone retention.
Benefit: Fabrics maintain their depth of hue, saturation, and complexity through years of wear and cleaning.
The internal architecture of a suit is where its engineering truly resides. At Cutting Room Bespoke, we use traditional, natural materials that allow the garment to move, breathe, and age gracefully.
We rely on 100% natural silk thread for all hand-sewn seams, buttonholes, and finishing touches. Silk offers exceptional tensile strength and elasticity.
Benefit: The seams flex with the body, resist fraying, and deliver a discreet luster only visible up close.
Our jackets are constructed with full floating canvases — never fused synthetics. A blend of horsehair and linen creates a living structure that shapes to the wearer over time.
Feature: Interwoven horsehair for resilience, with linen for breathability.
Benefit: The jacket molds to your frame with every wear, developing a soft yet defined drape unique to you.
We use hand-basted, stacked cotton padding within the chest and shoulder — never pre-molded foam. Each layer is built by hand, allowing the tailor to shape a natural chest contour.
Benefit: Superior comfort, organic shaping, and longevity. The garment will maintain structure while remaining exceptionally light.
A truly bespoke piece should express individuality both inside and out. We offer an extensive range of trims and linings that marry technical function with aesthetic personality.
Clients can choose from over 200 options, from minimalist neutrals to expressive patterns.
Bemberg Linings: 100% cupro for unmatched breathability and anti-static performance.
Jacquard Linings: Woven patterns that add tactile richness and discreet sophistication.
Printed Linings: Statement designs for those who value a touch of art hidden within their suit.
Benefit: Enhanced comfort, temperature control, and a personal signature with every jacket.
Our buttons are sourced from Corozo (vegetable ivory), natural bone, and mother-of-pearl shell, all selected for durability and visual richness.
Feature: Sustainably sourced, hand-polished finishes.
Benefit: Refined tactile response and long-term strength that elevate every closure and accent.
Every technical choice — from the micron of the wool to the angle of the weave — defines how a garment behaves in motion, responds to wear, and complements the body’s natural line.
Our philosophy is simple: true luxury lies in balance. The balance between softness and structure, fineness and endurance, art and science.
Each Cutting Room Bespoke suit represents not just craftsmanship, but an understanding of materials at their molecular and mechanical level — designed to perform beautifully, season after season.
When every element — fabric, trim, and thread — is chosen with precision, the result is not just a suit, but a living garment that becomes uniquely yours.
Discover how hand-curated materials transform tailoring into an art of movement, comfort, and individuality.
With Over 5500+ Fabric Choices, We have access to one of the largest selections of suiting fabrics in Southern California.
Don't see what you're looking for? Give us a call or a visit at the studio and we can hunt it down together.
